Through tightly edited collections and invitation-only unveilings, couture week has become a critical time for high jewellery maisons to reinforce their heritage and articulate their creative direction for the year ahead. Maisons such as Dior, Chaumet, Boucheron and Pomellato use this platform to reinterpret their most enduring codes by referencing archives and savoir-faire into contemporary, one-of-a-kind works.
Motifs rooted in gardens, wings, architecture and transformation are reworked through modularity and modern proportions, reinforcing high jewellery’s role as both a strategic brand asset in curating desire and as a form of cultural expression. Together, these collections reveal how high jewellery preserves the legacy of each maison, transforming historic motifs and techniques into timeless pieces.
Cartier En Equilibre
Cartier presented the third chapter of its En Equilibre High Jewellery collection during Paris Couture Week at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs — a venue whose historic interiors mirror the Maison’s dedication to craftsmanship and heritage. The collection interprets Cartier’s long-standing design codes, resulting in pieces that Cartier’s director of the high jewellery workshops Alexa Abitbol describes as “emotional resonance achieved through technical mastery”.
The Euphonia necklace exemplifies this technical and artistic expertise. Thirty-four perfectly matched diamonds are set to create a continuous ribbon of light, alternating square, baguette and brilliant cuts to generate rhythm and visual flow. The adjustable clasp allows for subtle modulation of form, reinforcing the collection’s theme of fluidity within geometric precision. The Splendea necklace is a study in understated elegance. Three pear-shaped Madagascar sapphires — totalling 16.59 carats — are positioned along diamond strands in perfect equilibrium. A variety of cuts — kite, diamond and brilliant — adds structure to the piece, demonstrating Cartier’s ability to balance simplicity with sophistication.
Colour and contrast play a central role in Parcae and Ondora. Parcae combines platinum, sapphires and diamonds, while Ondora juxtaposes chrysoprase, spinels and turquoise with diamonds in both organic and geometric forms. In Ondora, dual pendants — one adjustable — showcase Cartier’s mastery of transformable jewellery, echoing natural motifs such as the fluid motion of jellyfish, rendered in a structured yet abstract way.
The combination of rare stones, meticulous settings and refined draping demonstrates how the Maison reinterprets its heritage vocabulary into jewellery that is both narrative-rich and experiential. Jacqueline Karachi — director of high jewellery creation — describes the collection as “the art of balance, creating distinction through understatement.” What Cartier showcased in its third edition of the En Equilibre High Jewellery collection was the Maison’s understanding of balancing opposites — sculpted stones and spectacular volumes, subtle shades and bold chromatic harmonies all born from the exploration and reconciliation of opposing forces.
Belle Dior High Jewellery
Dior’s high jewellery “Belle Dior” collection by Victoire de Castellane translates the House’s historic fascination with gardens, femininity and couture into a contemporary jewellery narrative. Comprised of 57 pieces, the collection builds on Dior’s established visual codes while reframing them through movement and colour, positioning jewellery as an extension of the Maison’s couture language.
Central to the collection is Castellane’s ongoing exploration of braiding — a recurring motif in her work for Dior. Here, braided forms are elongated into articulated pendants and fringed elements that move vertically across necklaces, earrings and rings. These shifting lines reference both the structure of Dior ball gowns and the organic motion of flowering stems, creating a sense of lightness and rhythm across the pieces. Gold, diamonds and coloured gemstones are arranged as a nod to botanical landscapes, reinforcing Dior’s long-standing association with gardens as a creative (and symbolic) foundation.
Heritage references are further developed through thematic sets that draw on Christian Dior’s personal interests. The “Soleil Céleste” suite revisits the couturier’s fascination with astrology and divination, translating celestial symbolism into high jewellery through yellow diamonds and moon and star motifs carved from black opal doublets set against turquoise. Designed to be modular, the set includes transformable elements such as a bracelet that converts into a choker and a brooch that can be worn as a hair ornament, underscoring the Maison’s emphasis on versatility.
Other signature Dior high jewellery lines are revisited with updated colour stories. “Jardins Multicolores” appears in new shades of vivid green and powder pink, while “Dearest Dior” is reworked using tanzanite, selected for its “depth and saturation”. Each gemstone is individually chosen and placed by the Dior ateliers, highlighting the technical precision behind the collection’s narrative ambition.
The collection culminates in a statement ring set with a 6.50-carat pink spinel, cut in a cushion shape that opens into a floral form. As both a technical and symbolic centrepiece, the ring encapsulates “Belle Dior’s” broader intent to reinterpret Dior’s heritage motifs through contemporary craftsmanship.
Chaumet’s Envol High Jewellery Collection
During couture week 2026, Chaumet presents “Envol” — a high jewellery collection that revisits one of the Maison’s most enduring symbols: wings. Rooted in Chaumet’s imperial heritage and its long association with nature, the collection uses the theme of evolution to translate historic motifs into contemporary high jewellery.
The wing has long been part of Chaumet’s visual language since the early 19th century — shaped by the personal passions of Empress Joséphine and later formalised under the Empire — where wings became emblems of power and freedom. Archival designs showcase their early presence in neo-antique tiaras, which featured delicately rendered wings framing central diamonds. This naturalistic interpretation evolved through the Belle Époque and later into more stylised forms in the mid-20th century. “Envol” draws directly from this lineage, positioning wings as abstracted structures that express movement and lightness.
The collection is comprised of nine high jewellery creations unified by Chaumet’s signature blue, achieved through grand feu enamel paired with deep-toned Madagascar sapphires. Enamel — a technique integral to the Maison’s history for nearly 250 years — plays a central role to the collection which allows the colour to play both a structural and symbolic role in the collection. The use of dégradé blues reinforces the sense of flight and transformation that underpins the collection.
Versatility is also a defining feature across the pieces. A standout aigrette tiara — requiring over 850 hours of work — can be worn traditionally. Reduced to a diamond line centred by a 3.92-carat pear-shaped sapphire it can be transformed into a mask or separated into individual brooches. This emphasis on multiple portés reflects Chaumet’s long-standing approach to functional, technical ingenuity that supports the personal expression of the wearer.
Alongside the tiara, the collection highlights a pavé diamond necklace set with a 10.96-carat cushion-cut sapphire that can be reduced to a minimalist diamond line or converted into a brooch through concealed clasps. Jewellery watches, earrings, rings and brooches continue this modular approach. Even the collection’s timepiece is designed to shift roles, functioning as both a miniature clock and a pendant, referencing historical Chaumet designs while appealing to contemporary collectors. “Envol” positions Chaumet’s heritage as an active design resource, reinforcing the Maison’s ability to evolve its identity while remaining anchored in its origins.
Boucheron’s Histoire de Style 2026
Boucheron presented Histoire de Style at Couture Week 2026 — a high jewellery collection conceived as a portrait of the Maison’s founder, Frédéric Boucheron. Creative director Claire Choisne framed the collection around the founder’s defining philosophy of “transformation through perspective”.
When Frédéric Boucheron opened his first boutique in Paris in 1858, he positioned himself in opposition to convention. At a time when many jewellers upheld established hierarchies and ornamental codes, he rethought how jewellery related to the body and how the client would wear it in their own life. His decision to become the first jeweller on Place Vendôme formalised that ambition, establishing a legacy rooted in innovation rather than tradition for tradition sake.
Choisne translates this ethos into four major high jewellery pieces, each representing a core pillar of Boucheron’s creative vision. Titled “The Address”, “The Spark”, “The Silhouette” and “The Untamed”, the chapters trace the founder’s relationship with Place Vendôme, his sculptural approach to the body and his lifelong fascination with living nature. Together, they form a cohesive narrative that connects historical influence with contemporary design thinking.
Across the collection, jewellery is conceived in dialogue with the body of the wearer rather than as static ornamentation alone. Brooches, shoulder jewels and rings are designed with multiwear functionality, reflecting Frédéric Boucheron’s belief that jewellery should adapt to the individual. Materials including white gold, diamonds and black lacquer reinforce a graphic, modern aesthetic while allowing for form and movement.
Pomellato Collections
For its high jewellery showcase, Pomellato revisited its core collections, presenting fresh interpretations of signature pieces while keeping coloured gemstones at the heart of the Maison’s vision. Pomellato’s most recognisable collection, “Nudo” centres on boldly cut gemstones designed to showcase colour in its purest form. Defined by its signature “naked” stone setting, the collection emphasises light, volume and wearability.
Next, “Pomellato Together” explores the idea of connection through sculptural forms and subtle tension. Characterised by interlocking elements and clean lines, the collection translates emotional bonds into contemporary jewellery that balances symbolism with everyday functionality.
Playful yet graphic, Pom Pom Dot reinterprets the Maison’s archival button motif through reversible designs that contrast gemstones with diamonds. The collection offers versatility and movement, allowing pieces to shift in mood and appearance while remaining rooted in Pomellato’s Milanese design codes. Scala di Luce on the other hand, focuses on rhythm and repetition, using stepped silhouettes and pavé diamonds to create a sense of movement across the surface of each piece. The collection reflects Pomellato’s interest in architectural form, transforming linear structures into fluid, wearable works of art.
Finally, “Pentagoni” draws inspiration from geometric balance, with angular forms softened through refined proportions and meticulous stone setting, offering a modern interpretation of classic jewellery design.
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