Big anniversaries demand big releases. After all, what is the point of peerless longevity if not to flaunt all that accumulated mastery? Vacheron Constantin has just turned a spry 270 years–the oldest manufacture to operate continuously since its founding–and it certainly has the horological chops to prove it. Case in point: the bombastically named Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, boasting a jaw-dropping 41 complications (see the general Watches and Wonders Geneva stories this issue for more).
But showmanship alone is not what keeps the house Jean-Marc and Francois built like this ticking through centuries. Subtlety and refinement are equally important hallmarks of excellence, which is why part of the anniversary celebration includes a series of simple but elegant limited editions from the Traditionnelle and Patrimony collections.
All eight commemorative references (four from each line) are distinguished by dials engraved with a contemporary geometric motif inspired by the Maltese cross. The emblem has been associated with Vacheron Constantin since 1880, referencing a historic movement component designed to regulate the power delivered by the barrel. Over the years, the motif has made appearances in pin buckles, bracelet links, winding rotors, tourbillon cages, and even diamond prongs. Now it finds new life as a dial decoration that plays with light and depth.
The beating hearts of the watches have also taken on festive festooning. The movements all have a “cote unique” finish on their bridges — a deceptively simple pattern that requires precise machine-guided preparation and hand-executed finishing. First seen more than a century ago and revived in 2021 for the Historiques American 1921, this long-lost decoration took today’s artisans some 500 hours to (re)learn. The result is a seamless pattern of flowing lines across the bridges, complemented by a Maltese cross engraving to mark the milestone.
The decision to highlight the Traditionelle is informed by the collection’s high technical standards and distinctive aesthetics. The Traditionelle watch’s stepped lugs, fluted case back, slim bezel, railway minute track and faceted dauphine hands all speak to classicism with backbone. This anniversary edition includes two Traditionnelle Manual-Winding models in 38mm platinum or 5N pink gold (limited to 370 pieces each), both paired with grey alligator straps. There is also a 36mm Moon Phase in a gem-set pink gold case, and a demure 33mm Manual-Winding version, also gem-set and in pink gold. Both of the latter are limited to 270 pieces and feature pink alligator straps.
If the Traditionnelle honours Vacheron Constantin’s past, the Patrimony collection looks a little ways forward, with minimalist, ultra-thin models inspired by its round dress watches from the 1970s. The clean bezel, gently domed dial, baton hands and pearl minute track exude contemporary restraint. For the anniversary, the brand has selected the Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date and the Patrimony Self-Winding — both available in white or pink gold. The Moon Phase (limited to 270 pieces) features a retrograde date display, a Vacheron Constantin specialty since the 18th century. The Self-Winding is a 370-piece edition featuring time, date, and hacking seconds. Each is paired with a dark green alligator strap.
Turns out, you do not need to shout to stay in business for 270 years. You just need to be good at making the quiet look effortless.
This story was first seen as part of the WOW #79 Summer 2025 Issue
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