Few timepieces balance symbolism, artistry, and historical influence as elegantly as Van Cleef & Arpels’ Cadenas watch. Since its introduction in 1935, the Cadenas – French for padlock – has been a symbol of technical ingenuity and stylistic subversion. One of the French maison’s most emblematic creations, the timepiece is also a nod to artistic and societal narratives of the early 20th century.
The Cadenas emerged in an era when society dictated that women should appear unconcerned with the passage of time and checking one’s watch was considered impolite in refined company. Van Cleef & Arpels solved the dilemma with an elegant solution. Breaking from conventional watch design, the Cadenas’ cleverly angled dial was discreetly oriented toward the wearer, allowing her to subtly glance at the time without appearing impolite. Van Cleef & Arpels’ ingenious workaround wasn’t a hat-tip to social etiquette, but a subtle rebellion artfully expressed through beauty. A 1936 advertisement for the watch even celebrated the idea of “peeking at the time”, highlighting its suitability for refined society while quietly challenging its restrictions.
But beyond its practical innovation, the Cadenas also engaged in an intellectual dialogue with the art world. Inspired by the padlock – an everyday object transposed into a precious work of art – its design echoed the avant-garde spirit of the readymade concept introduced by Marcel Duchamp. The influential French artist’s work in the 1910s and 1930s challenged the definitions of beauty and utility. In this spirit, the Cadenas watch marries the ordinary with the extraordinary, transforming a utilitarian motif into a bejewelled symbol of elegance and personal freedom.
Over the decades, the Cadenas watch has seen numerous reinterpretations. The original yellow gold version was soon followed by models set with calibrated sapphires or rubies in 1936, diamonds in 1938, and emeralds by 1943. Van Cleef & Arpels adapted the watch to suit changing tastes, offering pavé-set platinum versions and even iterations with leather straps for everyday wear.
Today, the 2025 Cadenas watch continues this lineage of sophisticated innovation. It retains the iconic silhouette defined by its sculptural padlock-inspired handle and double snake chain bracelet in yellow gold, which wraps fluidly around the wrist with remarkable flexibility. The angled dial remains a signature, maintaining the watch’s unique blend of privacy and prestige.
The high jewellery creation flaunts a watch case entirely snow-set with diamonds, a complex gem-setting technique that maximises sparkle by tightly packing stones of varying sizes with seemingly random precision. A row of princess-cut sapphires enhances the upper side of the case and is mirrored in the clasp, infusing the piece with stunning colour and contrast. The white gold dial is festooned with brilliant-cut diamonds to complete the dazzling composition.
It’s undeniable that the Cadenas watch remains a triumph of design and storytelling even after 90 years. An heirloom-quality piece rooted in the traditions of high jewellery and infused with a modern sensibility, it’s a testament to Van Cleef & Arpels’ mastery in transforming poetic ideas into wearable art, and a continuing homage to women’s evolving relationship with time, autonomy, and elegance.
This story was first seen as part of the WOW #78 Vision 2025 Issue
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