More insider guides for planning a trip to Sydney
These are unusual times, and the state of affairs can change quickly. Please check the latest travel guidance before making your journey. Note that our writer visited pre-pandemic.
Sydney’s multicultural society is reflected in its diverse range of cuisines and dining experiences. While the inner-city scene is watched over by hipsters with sleeve tattoos and encyclopedic knowledge of the fermentation process, the western suburbs offer a hotbed of cuisines from, among others, large Vietnamese, Greek, Chinese and Lebanese communities. A strong focus on sustainable practices and support of local farmers has seen a rise in the number of restaurants that offer seasonal menus made up of locally sourced ingredients. And coffee? Be nice to those aforementioned hipsters, they really know how to make a good one…
Central Sydney
Hubert
The wood-panelled staircase, lined with cabinets of miniature liquor bottles, spirals deep down into the subterranean throes of Restaurant Hubert. It’s a love letter to the Paris of the 1930s. Here, the strains of live jazz mingle with rich French fare, candlelit tables, red velvet drapes and attentive hipster staff – even the sommelier has tattoos and thick-rimmed glasses. The banquet menu is a cost-effective approach and comes with a succulent whole chicken fricassee in bread sauce to share. It does not include the kimchi gratin, but, if you can handle some heat, order it on the side. Magnifique.
Contact: 00 61 2 9232 0881; restauranthubert.com
Opening times: Thu, Fri, 12pm-3pm; Mon-Sat, 5pm-1am
Reservations: Walk-ins only at dinner; reservations at dinner taken for groups of six or more. Best table is in front of the stage.
Prices: £££
Credit:
Daniel Boud/Daniel Boud
Quay
With unparalleled views, service and fine fare, Quay has occupied pride of place in the hearts of Sydney diners for over 15 years. With the backdrop of The Opera House and Sydney Harbour, it’s as difficult as you might think to secure a table; book at least three months in advance. But nowhere else in town can give a sense of occasion quite like it. The six or 10-course menu includes dishes such as smoked pig jowl, fan shell razor clam, shiitake and sea cucumber crackling proving that Peter Gilmore’s delicate approach to rare ingredients is still as much a drawcard as the famed view.
Contact: 00 61 2 9251 5600; quay.com.au
Opening times: Mon-Thu, 6pm-10pm; Fri, noon-1.30, 6pm-10pm; Sat, Sun, noon-2pm, 6pm-10pm
Reservations: Essential
Prices: £££
Bennelong
The Sydney Opera House’s premier restaurant is carved out of the inside of one of the famous Utzon sails – you’ll feel like you’re dining inside the belly of a whale. The split-level layout affords three separate dining experiences to suit a range of budgets. The Restaurant is the most formal of the experiences; Cured & Cultured offers counter seats overlooking the fastidious chefs’ work stations; and The Bar is ideal for a drink before or after a show. The pavlova wins the award for cutest dessert. Aside from being a must-taste Australian specialty, it is shaped like a mini Opera House.
Contact: 00 61 2 9240 8000; bennelong.com.au
Opening times: The Restaurant: lunch, Fri-Sun, 12pm-2pm; dinner, daily, 5.30pm and 6pm for pre-theatre, and 6.30pm-10pm. Cured & Cultured: lunch, Fri-Sun, 12pm-2pm; dinner, daily 5.30pm-late
Reservations: Essential. Best table is by the window, overlooking Sydney Harbour and The Sydney Harbour Bridge.
Prices: £££
Golden Century
Sydney’s famous late-night haunt for Peking Duck is a favourite among visiting celebrities, politicians, and chefs at the end of late-night shifts. An extensive wine list is more high-end than you’d expect given the décor; it’s not particularly pretty. Two noisy floors of diners gather around large, lazy susan-centered, round tables the walls lined with the many awards and accolades the institution has gathered over its 30 years. The XO pippies are the go-to dish here, dense and salty and served atop a layer of crisp noodles, it counts David Chang and Heston Blumenthal among its fans.
Contact: 00 61 2 9281 1598; goldencentury.com.au
Opening times: Daily, noon-4am
Prices: ££
Payment type: Credit cards accepted
Reservations: Recommended
• The best things to do in Sydney
Fratelli Paradiso
This is one of Sydney’s most beloved Italian haunts. Frat Pas (as it’s affectionately called) is a dimly lit, bustling trattoria with leather booths, a whimsical mural of all things Italian, and metallic mid-century inspired lighting. There are 12 Italian classics on the blackboard, a tight wine list and strong, friendly service. The ragu pasta is as heartwarming as the atmosphere, but, if you prefer something a little lighter, try the spaghetti with a whole, split scampi. Come for breakfast, lunch or dinner. It’s wonderful, always.
Contact: 00 61 2 9357 1744; fratelliparadiso.com
Opening times: Mon-Sat, 7am-11pm, Sun, 7am-10pm
Reservations: Recommended
Prices: ££
Gelato Messina
Gelato Messina has such a devoted following it’s become more of a cult than a gelato store. Every week the ‘technicians’ produce six specials that remain in the cabinet for one week. However, there are signature flavours that are always available. Salted caramel and white chocolate is the biggest seller, but what keeps me coming back for more is the apple pie – house gelato with home-baked apple pie mixed throughout. Don’t worry if you’re not around Darlinghurst; they also have stores in Bondi, Pyrmont and Surry Hills.
Contact: 00 61 1800 435 286; gelatomessina.com
Opening times: Sun-Thu, 12pm-11pm; Fri, Sat, 12pm-11.30pm
Prices: £
Reservations: Walk-ins only
Café Sydney
It’s impossible to talk about Café Sydney without talking about the view. In terms of taking in Sydney Harbour, the house and the bridge, the sprawling terrace really is the best seat in town. Its famed seafood platter is an exquisitely presented abundance of scampi, prawns, marron, Moreton Bay bugs, crab and oysters for AUD $160 (£88). Dessert is by no means an afterthought, try the milk chocolate cremeux with marscapone mousse, Tia Maria and vanilla ice cream to end an indulgent evening.
Contact: 00 61 2 9251 8683; cafesydney.com
Opening times: Mon-Fri, 12pm-10pm; Sat, 5pm-10pm; Sun, 12pm-4pm
Prices: £££
Reservations: Essential
Porteño
Argentinian barbecue share plates, energetic staff immaculately dressed in waistcoats and bow ties, an exclusively South American wine list, black-and-white tiled floors, walk-in wine room, vintage soccer posters and a smouldering fire pit – Porteño is one of Sydney’s sexiest establishments. Whole beasts slow-cooked over the asado collapse tenderly on the plate and smoked provoleta arrives with a steaming hiss. Note: while Porteño is mostly about meat there are also excellent seafood and vegetarian options.
Contact: 00 61 2 8399 1440; porteno.com.au
Opening times: Tue-Thu, Sat, from 6pm; Fri from 12pm.
Reservations: Recommended
Prices: ££
Bourke Street Bakery
Don’t be put off by the queue that runs out the door; it moves, and the coffee and food are worth the short wait. This tiny bakery is an ideal stop-off for a croissant and coffee in the morning, picnic supplies, a light lunch or a well-deserved afternoon treat. Famous for their dense sourdough bread, other favourites include the brisket pie, the pork and fennel sausage roll, and the chocolate tart. If you’re not in Surry Hills, they also have stores in Marrickville, Potts Point, Alexandria, Neutral Bay and North Sydney.
Contact: 00 61 2 9699 1011; bourkestreetbakery.com.au
Opening times: Mon-Fri, 7am-6pm; Sat, Sun, 7am-5pm
Reservations: Walk-ins only
Prices: £
Great Aunty Three
Aunty Three is the love child of Michael Le and his wife Mai who, after a decade of working in the corporate sector, decided to turn their attention to their first great love, Vietnamese food. Inspired by the street food of their native country, and with Le’s grandmother Yi Ba (Vietnamese for Aunty Three) as their culinary spirit guide, the couple produces restorative pho, banh mi and some of Sydney’s freshest rice paper rolls – the Peking-style roast duck with mint, lettuce and rice noodles is a crowd-pleaser.
Contact: 00 61 2 9519 2886; greatauntythree.com
Opening times: Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm; Sat, Sun, 10am-4pm
Reservations: Walk-ins only
Prices: £
Lakemba
Jasmins
It’s a well-known fact that Jasmins has the best Lebanese food in Sydney. Located in the Western Sydney suburb of Lakemba, it’s out of the way, but if creamy hummus, smoky babaganoosh and perfectly crisp falafel balls are your thing, it’s worth the travel time. The interiors are gaudy: neon lighting, faux marble and ostentatiously gilded murals, but it’s the food people travel for, not the décor. Try one of the mixed plates to sample a few of the dishes: grilled meats, salty and sour pickles, tabouleh and fouleh are best washed down with Jasmins’ signature homemade lemonade.
Contact: 00 61 2 9740 3589; jasminsrestaurant.com.au
Opening times: Daily, 8.30am-9.30pm
Reservations: Walk-ins only
Prices: £
Bondi Beach
Bills
Bill Granger is famous for food that is clean, bright and fresh so it’s a wonder it took him so long to open in Bondi; the locals are basically Bill Granger dishes on legs. The space is beautiful, with marble topped tables, retro light fittings and artworks grouped together in mismatched clusters. Bill made his name by being darn good at breakfast; the ricotta hotcakes with banana and honeycomb butter are almost as famous as his creamy scrambled eggs. The Bloody Mary is a perfectly savoury tipple and no one will raise a (perfectly groomed) eyebrow when you order it at breakfast – this is Bondi after all.
Contact: 00 61 2 8412 0700; bills.com.au
Opening times: Mon-Sun, 7am-10pm
Reservations: Recommended
Prices: ££
Coogee
Coogee Pavilion
Spread over three enormous levels, Coogee Pavilion claims to celebrate all the good things in life – friendship, family, fun and food. Luckily, it’s big enough to accommodate all of them. The ground floor is home to a spectacular family area, with table tennis tables, an oversized magnetic scrabble board and general ‘go nuts’ kids’ space. If you’re not in the mood for chaos, avoid it. The rooftop bar is adults-only and boasts panoramic ocean views, four indoor and outdoor drinking areas and a fine Mediterranean menu. Come for the oyster bar, sashimi and the wood-fired pizza; stay for the drinks and to soak up the views.
Contact: 00 61 2 9240 3000; merivale.com.au
Opening times: Daily, 7.30am-late; Rooftop, Mon-Sun, 12pm-12am
Reservations: Recommended
Prices: ££
Palm Beach
The Boathouse Palm Beach
Palm Beach is the furthermost point of Sydney and The Boathouse occupies prime real estate with views stretching out over Pittwater and West Head. It’s a laidback spot, full of locals in their swimwear with the weekend papers stretched out in front of them. The sesame rice bowl with poached eggs, avocado, edamame and pickle is both hearty and healthy. Milkshakes and smoothies are served in vintage glass milk bottles with paper straws. The wine list – four whites, four reds and two pinks – is unpretentious – just how the locals like it.
Contact: 00 61 2 9974 5440; theboathousepb.com.au
Opening times: Daily, 7.30am-4pm
Reservations: Walk-ins only. Best table: on the sun-drenched deck.
Prices: £
• The best things to do in Sydney
Paddington
10 William St
Almost everything about 10 William St feels like a wine bar. The dark lighting, the cramped tables, the narrow converted terrace, the speed at which the waitstaff delivers strong negronis. What sets it apart is the menu; you won’t find a whipped ‘bottarga’ pretzel like this in a wine bar. Chef Dan Pepperell’s take on rustic Italian fare is as generous as the extremely long – and mostly Italian – wine list. The menu is designed to share; if you’re in a group, order the chicken cacciatora, shimeji, enoki and the tagliatelle, octopus, chilli butter and olive times two.
Contact: 00 61 2 9360 3310; 10williamst.com.au
Opening times: Mon-Thu, 5pm-12am; Fri, Sat, 12pm-12am
Reservations: Walk-ins only. Best table: Upstairs, if you want more (read, any) elbow room.
Prices: ££
Manly
Queen Chow
Dining this close to the water makes you want to eat what’s in it, so it’s lucky that executive chef, Patrick Friesen, decided to go big on live seafood. The menu also pays homage to the old-school Chinese dishes that Australians love such as special fried rice and honey prawns. The original Queen Chow in Enmore is famous for its dumplings, and devotees will be happy to know they’ve crossed the bridge and made it to the Manly menu, too.
Contact: 00 61 2 9240 3000; merivale.com.au
Opening times: Mon-Wed, 12pm-3pm, 5.30pm-11pm; Thu-Sat, 12pm-3pm; 5.30pm-midnight; Sun, 12pm-3pm, 5.30pm-10pm.
Reservations: Recommended. Best table is by the window, overlooking the sea.
Prices: ££
